Embracing Autumn

I don't know what it was but as soon as August 1st arrived, so did a tingle of fall in the air. Suddenly the days seemed to shorten at a quicker pace, and though it has still been quite warm, especially for Sweden this time of year, I’ve noticed a crispness to the breeze and I hear a crackly sound when the leaves rustle on the trees. Autumn is definitely in the air. 

Usually I am sad to see the summer go. Okay, maybe sad is the wrong word, it's more like a reluctance I feel to step full force into the next season. Perhaps it has been my fear of the long, dark winters ahead that weigh on my soul, or perhaps my body didn’t feel that it had “downloaded” enough warmth from the summer sun to take me into a long, tough Swedish winter, I don't really know. But what I am feeling and experiencing now, with regard to the "höst känslor" in the air, is that my body and soul are fully embracing it, welcoming it even. I am surrendering to nature. 

What else is there to do? When I look at nature around me, the flowers, plants, and trees, they do not seem to fight the changing seasons. Nature continues to evolve according to divine plan. Summer becomes fall, fall becomes winter and so forth. Why then would I not follow suit? The argument that living at a different longitude and latitude having a strong influence on my reluctance to embrace the season’s change can easily be made, given that I was not accustomed to white nights in the summer and black days in the winter when I first moved here. 

Perhaps time is the great equalizer. It has now been nearly five years that I have lived in Sweden. It is a very different place from where I am from, where I grew up, different in almost every way. There are vast differences in the way people interact, the cuisine is different, being influenced by the cold as well as the great abundance of fresh seafood, and the weather, of course, is quite different. Life here is lived differently. 

Perhaps by embracing autumn I am also finally embracing this new and different life in another world... With pumpkin bread, of course. Something comforting and sweet always softens the blow of autumn breezes. 

Autumn Pumpkin Bread:

Ingredients:

1 15 oz can pumpkin

4 eggs

1/2 c vegetable oil

1/2 c unsweetened apple sauce (or just use another 1/2 c vegetable oil)

2/3 c water

2 c sugar

3 1/2 c all-purpose flour

2 tsp baking soda

1 1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp ground nutmeg

1/2 tsp ground cloves

1/2 tsp ground ginger

1 tsp pure vanilla extract

Instructions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Butter 2 loaf pans, or one loaf pan and prepare a  twelve muffin pan with muffin baking liners. 

In a large bowl, mix pumpkin, eggs, oil, water, sugar, & vanilla extract. Set aside. 

In a clean bowl, measure out the remaining dry ingredients and whisk to blend well. Add dry ingredients to the large bowl with your well-blended wet ingredients.   

Divide between the two loaf pans, or between one loaf pan & twelve muffin tins. 

Bake loaves for 50 minutes to an hour. Bake muffins for 20-25 minutes. Use a cake tester or toothpick to test if done. It should come out clean. 

Additions:

Add a big handful of chocolate chips or chopped dark chocolate to the batter before distributing in your baking vessels.

Top the batter in the loaf pans or muffin tin with pecan halves before baking.    

Mölle Krukmakeri and a Simple, Lazy-Day, 30-Minute Pasta

A mere 500 meters from the town of Mölle. Beautiful scenery all around!

Approximately three hours drive south of our summer house on Tjörn, lies a quaint peninsula in the Höganäs region of Skåne. Tucked into the southwestern coast of Sweden, the beautiful, lush nature reserve of Kullaberg rises above the charming, seaside town of Mölle. I'd heard talk of how beautiful Kullaberg’s nature reserve is. What I didn't hear however, is how breath-taking the views are, even in and around the lazy, country roads that curve around the peninsula, taking you by farms with free-roving pigs, chickens, cows, and horses, along with rows and rows of ready-to-harvest "rödbetor" (beets) and "potatis" (potatoes). It is no wonder that the ceramic studio, which inspired our trip down, was filled with such beautiful bowls, platters, mugs, plates and other assorted vessels for purchase. The beautiful nature is certainly inspirational!

Just one angle of Mölle Krukmakeri's shop & beautiful wares.

Mölle Krukmakeri is a small slice of heaven for clay-influenced folk like myself. Part ceramics studio, part cafe, Mölle Krukmakeri is my dream come true. I could easily see myself running a similar establishment at some point in my life. That is, once I've mastered being able to reproduce a bowl, cup, or other shape more than once, or by chance ;-). In other words, when I've managed to master the clay. (Wink, wink). So far I am a great master of the "unique" bowl/cup/plate. I’m getting there slowly but surely. 

("Hey, my name is Viktor, I bite sometimes") :-D

I’m not entirely sure if it was out of a desire to hold on to the inspiration or merely a love for her work, but we left with two large “pasta” bowls, a beautiful planter, and thoughts of replacing our dishes at home with her gorgeous plates and bowls. Every time we have used these amazing bowls I think of those dishes we left behind and my mind starts rearranging our cupboards to fit them into our lives. One day they will be ours. 

Just the other day we decided to make our “simple, lazy-day, 30-minute pasta” for dinner and my husband claimed that it was the best one yet. I proposed that maybe it was because of the bowls that our simple pasta dish tasted so much better. He concurred. ;-) I think pretty much anything would taste better in one of these bowls. Ice cream? yes. Salad? definitely. Pasta? of course, silly.

Infinity circle love.

Simple, Lazy-Day, 30-minute Pasta:

Ingredients:

- Spaghetti for two, cooked al dente & drained, reserving approximately 1/4 C of cooking liquid

- A larger than probably desired lump of butter

- 1-2 cloves of garlic, minced or pressed

- 1/8 - 1/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes

- Freshly ground black pepper

- Pinch of salt

- Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

- Chiffonade of fresh basil leaves

- Two beautiful, oversized, handmade ceramic bowls & a healthy appetite

After you have cooked & drained your pasta and set aside some of the cooking liquid, quickly rinse your pot and place it back on the burner on low to medium heat. Melt your butter and once it has started to bubble up, add your garlic and sauté for 2-3 minutes or until fragrant. Add half of your crushed red pepper flakes and continue to stir for just under a minute. Quickly add your pasta and toss, adding more crushed red pepper, ground black pepper, the reserved cooking liquid, and finally a pinch of salt. 

Place a small amount of pasta in the bottom of each bowl, sprinkle with parmesan cheese, layer with more pasta and cheese until you run out of each, making sure to finish with a light dusting of cheese. Sprinkle your fresh basil on top and complete with a turn of the pepper mill. Enjoy! 

Don't you agree that just about anything would taste delicious in one of these?!

Midsummer in Sweden

(Photo from Gunnebo Slott in Gothenburg - 2010)

It’s hard to believe that Midsummer is already upon us! It seems like just yesterday I was thinking about switching out my winter clothes for spring and summer clothes. And though we have had some nice warm days, it still does not yet feel like summer here in Stockholm. That being said, there are only three days left until Midsummer and time to get my menu  in gear, make those Midsommarkranser (flower crowns), and prepare to sing, dance, and hop like a frog around the Midsommarstång (May pole). You know what they say... when in Rome... or Sweden in my case. 

We will be spending Midsommar on the west coast this year. So far we've celebrated Midsommar at Gunnebo Slott in Gothenburg with my husband's family, a delicious picnic and homemade flower wreaths, here in Stockholm at Vitabergsparken with some dear friends and some really good champagne, and again on the west coast on the island of Tjörn, where my husband's family has a summer cottage. This year we are heading back to Tjörn. Hopefully the weather will make a change for the better. Right now it is looking like a rainy, indoor Midsommar. Which means lots of eating and libations. It's not necessarily a bad thing but some sunshine would be nice for the longest day of the year. 

Here are a few photos from past year's celebrations:

2010:

(Picking flowers from my sister-in-law's garden)

(Making my Midsommarkrans (flower crown))

(Picnic at Gunnebo Slott in Gothenburg)

(Svenska jordgubbar (Swedish word for strawberries - literally translates to mean "earth men")

(A glass of bubbly with strawberries and citronmeliss, or lemon balm)

(The dinner spread)

(Too shy to dance arround the May pole at Gunnebo, my husband and I came across this lonely pole the day after so I took advantage of the privacy and hopped around it like a frog)

2011:

(Vitabergspark in Stockholm with a couple of our dear friends, B & J) 

(Leaf crowns "borrowed" from a group that left them behind!)

(Midsommarstång, or May pole)

2012:

(Vegetarian quiche for lunch, topped with chive blossoms and chopped chives, both from the garden)

(Cardamom & pear cake)

(Our very own Midsommar pole)

(Who is that on my wine glass???!)

(Um... this was what was left after lunch... however, this also disappeared during the "clean up")

(A little fun and games between meals... my husband pulled out his unicycle)

  
(Beautiful hand-painted sign for our summer cottage neighborhood - Viks Ödegärde)

(Gentlemen doing gentlemen-ly things - scrubbing the potatoes!)

(Dinner spread)

(Best Midsommartårta (cake) ever! - Recipe below)

Important things that must be present for any successful Midsummer: 

• Lots of fresh flowers from the garden (or supermarket)
• Lots of fresh, Swedish strawberries (and if you think you have enough, buy a few more cartons)
• Inlagd sill (pickled herring) & fresh Swedish potatoes (of course with all the classic accoutrements: finely chopped red onion, chives, sour cream, löjrom, dill and lemon. Some also serve it with chopped, pickled beets and chopped boiled egg. 
• Swedish snaps (O.P. Anderson is our favorite) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snaps
• Did I mention Swedish strawberries for the cake?

Speaking of Midsommar and Swedish strawberries, my absolutely, favorite, Midsommar dessert is one from Ernst Kirchsteiger, that one of my sisters-in-law turned me on to.This "midsommartårta" is one of the best desserts you'll ever eat. I hope you'll try it! (I have written in the English instructions directly after the Swedish ones).

Ernst Midsommartårta - 8 bitar (8 servings)

(Tip for the US: If you look at your Pyrex measuring cup, you will see a measurement for milliliters (ml) on the opposite side)

SMET 1 (Batter 1):

1 1/2 dl vetemjöl (100-150 ml flour)
1 dl strösocker (100 ml sugar)
2 tsk bakpulver (2 tsp baking powder)
150 g smör, smält (150 grams butter, melted – 1 stick is 113 grams)
3 äggulor (3 egg yolks)
5 msk grädde (5 tbsp cream)

SMET 2 (Batter 2):

3 äggvitor (3 egg whites)
2 dl strösocker (200 ml sugar)
1 tsk vaniljsocker (1tsp vanilla sugar, or just vanilla extract)
mandelspån (1/2 -1 cup sliced almonds)

FYLLNING (Filling):Rikligt med bär, som hallon, vinbär, blåbär och jordgubbar (Plenty of fresh berries, such as raspberries, red currants, blueberries and strawberries – we used strawberries only)
3 dl vispad grädde (300 ml whipped cream)
mera bär till garnering (More berries for garnishing)
florsocker (powdered sugar)

Gör så här (Instructions):

1) Sätt ugnen på 175 grader (Preheat oven to 175 C/350 F)

2) SMET 1: Blanda vetemjöl, strösocker och bakpulver. Vispa ihop
med smält smör, äggulor och grädde. Bred ut på bakplåtspapper i en långpanna. (Batter 1: Blend flour, sugar & baking powder together. Whisk the melted butter, egg yolks and cream together and add to the dry ingredients. Spread out on a cookie sheet prepared with parchment paper).

3) SMET 2: Vispa äggvitor, strösocker och vaniljsocker till en tjock
maräng. Bred ut marängen ovanpå den första degen. Strö över mandelspån. (Batter 2: Whip the egg whites, sugar and vanilla sugar/vanilla until you have a thick merringue. Spread the merringue over the first batter and top with a generous sprinkling of sliced almonds).

4) Grädda i nedre delen av ugnen i cirka 30 minuter eller tills
marängen fått lite färg. (Bake in the lower part of the over approximately 30 minutes, or until the merringue is light brown).

5) Dela kakan på mitten och lägg bär och grädde på den ena halvan. Lägg på den andra halvan, garnera gärna med bär och pudra över florsocker. (Divide the cake in two, spread whipped cream and berries on the bottom half. Top with the second half of the cake and garnish with more berries and a sprinkling of powdered sugar.

Tips: Gör dubbel sats med två bottnar för en större tårta. (For one large cake, double all ingredients and layer the whole cakes :-D I recommend doubling the recipe  - it is THAT GOOD!)

(Does this not look completely divine??!)

One other Midsommar tradition is for young girls to gather seven different flowers during the day into a small bouquet. You then sleep with the bouquet under your pillow and supposedly you'll dream of the man you are to marry. Since I've already married the man of my dreams I won't be participating but I think it's a nice tradition.

(Handpicked on our afternoon walk near the summer cottage)

Will you sleep with seven flowers under your pillow this Midsommar?

LOTS Möte or Planning Meeting

How do you plan vacations with your significant other? Do you discuss finances together? Talk about how you can improve your relationship? Do these things come up in conversation? Or do you simply fly by the seat of your pants? One of my colleagues has a twice yearly meeting with her significant other to plan out their life, six months at a time. But it isn’t just a meeting. They take an entire weekend and go to an inn, cottage or other similar cozy place where one might go for a weekend getaway, complete with activities and an agenda. What they come away with is a clear plan for their social calendar, how they will conduct their savings and retirement, where they plan to go for vacations, how they would like their relationship to evolve, and any other related activities or functions they have in common.

I became more and more curious as she was telling me about her weekend. Their financial meeting over breakfast, their vacation discussion over dinner, their agenda-free bastu (dry sauna), and their long, outdoor walk discussing their [grown up] children, among other light matters. Where did they go for this weekend excursion? Did they take notes during their meetings? Did they write reports? How did they even come up with this crazy idea?  As she began to explain why they do it and how it got started, what at first seemed to be a bit overkill or even silly was starting to sound like a brilliant idea. 

They spent their weekend at Såstaholm hotel and conference center, just north of Stockholm. Yes, they took notes and, yes, they wrote up a report afterward. But who came up with this weekend getaway, planning meeting? The idea came from her father. He was a physician who at one time used a process called the the LOTS-model in his practice. The LOTS-model was a work tool for activity development designed for children with psychological issues and illnesses. The work was conducted in meetings together with the children’s’ families to provide support and promote positive development. My colleague called her own meeting a “LOTS möte” (pronounced like “votes” with an “L” and “möte” is meeting in Swedish). It is a sort of loose translation from the original meaning but produces similar results. 

It sounds a bit formal to plan a weekend away merely for the sake of “planning your life” but with all of the distractions at home (iPhones, iPads, Internet, TV, etc.), organizing a weekend away to have these serious, though light-hearted discussions seems like a brilliant idea. We plan for all sorts of other things in our lives, why not make a few plans for our personal relationships? And a weekend away to a quaint cottage or inn always sounds like a good idea to me. 

Here are a few places that look interesting to me:

Vintage Eastside in Austin, Texas

Kafferosteriet på Österlen in southern Sweden

Grythyttan Inn near Örebro a few hours west and north of Stockholm, Sweden

Utö Värdshuset 

(Photos from our trip to the Texas hill country a few years ago)

My Ten Favorite Cafes - In and Around Stockholm

One of my absolute favorite things about Sweden is the Swedish fika, or coffee break. Swedes have utterly perfected this fika thing, which actually encompasses much more than simply taking the American "ten minute coffee break" at work. It is a social institution, utilized by friends, family and the work place alike, and almost always includes a goodie, such as a *kanelbulle, **kärleksmums, or other delectable Swedish bakverk (bakery treat in English). And I love this part of it because it seems to provide an "excuse" to eat a goodie when I wouldn't normally eat one. I mean, I want to be sociable. Its the polite thing, right? Then again, my pants seem to be telling me that perhaps I have fika'd and been sociable a bit too much lately. 

Well, the good news is that it is warmer and lighter out now and I feel sure that I will be on my bike again soon. Which means that all of those fika goodies will simply melt away. That's my hope anyway and I am sticking to it. So what's all this nonsense below? Just a list of some of my favorite cafes in and around Stockholm. Around having a wide circumference. The cafes are in alphabetical order to avoid any biases or prejudices, as they are all equally loved for different reasons. 

da Matteo - Södralarmgatan 14, Gothenburg: We discovered da Matteo on my first trip to Gothenburg. Located within Victoriapassagen, a small walkway between Södra Larmgatan and Vallgatan, and near Grönsakstorget, which literally means vegetable square! Cute! da Matteo serves the best lattes I have ever had and their vegetarian smörgåsar (sandwiches) and surdegskanelbullar (sour dough cinnamon buns) will rock your world.

Granola - Vaernedamsvej 5, Frederiksberg C, Denmark: This lovely gem was discovered on our trip to Copenhagen last August. Our hotel served breakfast but, since it was not included with our room, we decided to venture out into the city for some local fare. So glad we did! The photos below tell the story... rich strong lattes, homemade breads, fresh fruit, pancakes with maple syrup, and their own hazelnut chocolate spread. Mmmmm! Highly recommended!

iL Caffe - södermannagatan 23, Södermalm, Stockholm: iL Caffe we stumbled upon one day while browsing around the quirky charming neighborhoods of SoFo (South of Folkungagatan). Their assortment of freshly grilled sandwiches are their specialty, and of course a latte goes nicely with one. You can also pick up some freshly baked bread at Fabrique, their on site bakery. I recommend the Mr. Toast or the Gotland bread. (Sorry no photo available!)

Kaffe - Sankt Paulsgatan 17, Södermalm, Stockholm: Featured in the American version of Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, this cafe is not only famous worldwide but they have the most amazing toasts, otherwise known as grilled sandwiches. Probably not the healthiest but certainly the most tasty, two slices of white bread framing the creamiest filling of chanterelle mushrooms, Västerbotten cheese, and a touch of cream. And the best lattes this side of Södermalm! ;-)

Kalaset - Vendersgade 16, Copenhagen, Denmark: Kalaset I came across when we were planning our trip to Copenhagen last summer and after one of the employees of Larry Vs. Harry (in Copenhagen) recommended it as well, we made a b-line straight there. We had a late lunch here (awesome veggie burger) on our first day and we liked it so much we returned the next morning for breakfast (pancakes, granola & yogurt). A fun little haunt with a funky, eclectic style. The food was fantastic but in our hunger we failed to think of photos. Except for this adorable wooden spoon. They had an assortment of adorably painted wooden spoons that they used to identify you when delivering your food. 

Mellqvist Kaffebar - Hornsgatan 78, Södermalm, Stockholm: I found Mellqvist Kaffebar just after we had moved to Stockholm. Out looking to grab a quick snack while we [my husband] painted the bedroom wall of our new apartment, I ducked in here and ordered two sandwiches (with bread from Valhallabageriet below) and a latte for the man. At the time I was not drinking coffee but that is what living in Scandinavia does to you. It’s only the coffee drinking capital of the world. That said, their lattes rival those from Kaffe. 

Rosendals Trädgård - Rosendalsterrassen 12, Djurgården, Stockholm: If this cafe and garden were closer I would visit them every day. They grow their own organic ingredients in the gardens surrounding the cafe grounds and the food and atmosphere are absolutely lovely, especially on a sunny day. On our first visit here one late February, early March, I saw many people sitting outdoors (it was still minus Celsius) taking in the sun. At the time I thought they were crazy but after living here for three years, I now clearly understand the sun worship in freezing temperatures.

Skåningen Kaffebar - Skånegatan 92, Södermalm, Stockholm: Skåningen Kaffebar would be my home away from home if, a) it was closer to home, and b) if it wasn't so small and always packed. They have hands down the best morotskaka (carrot cake) in all of Sweden, especially if you are a cardamom fan. They make it in house, as they do all of their sweet treats. I've tried to acquire the recipe but the baker is tight-lipped and only smiles and says, "It's a secret." Well, I will happily visit Skåningen Kaffebar in order to partake. They also have the best lattes that side of Södermalm and they made the best decaf lattes in Sweden.

Stationshuset  - Saltsjöbaden Train Station, Saltsjöbaden, Stockholm:

The "Station House" sits literally at then end of the Saltsjöbanan train line to Saltsjöbaden, a resort area along the coast of the Baltic Sea. It is an easy twenty minute train ride from Stockholm. The surrounding area is beautiful and includes the lovely Grand Hotel (behind me in the photo below). We were there in early spring and brave souls were still skating on the melting ice. Brave, crazy, your pick. The cafe was the only thing open on this quiet afternoon, aside from the Grand Hotel, which seemed a bit rich for our blood that day so we ventured into Stationshuset for a light lunch. What a pleasant surprise. Handmade sweets and organic ingredients plus a lovely selection of teas, this cafe is definitely a new favorite and makes a lovely day outing from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Valhallabageriet - Valhallavägen 174, Stockholm: If there is a better croissant in Stockholm, please tell me where it is. This bakery and [tiny] café make the best croissants outside of France, in my humble opinion. They also have wonderful breads and sweet rolls and their smörgåsar, or sandwiches, make a great pick-me-up after an outing on cross-country skis in the nearby fields of Gärdet, or even a tranquil bike ride around Djurgården. Just be prepared to be seduced by the rich, buttery flavors, as the baker here definitely does not have a problem with butter, nor cream either most likely!

I hope with all my heart that you get to try at least one of these lovelies in your life. If you live in Sweden it will be a bit easier but for those of you who live faraway.... Well, it's a great excuse for a visit to the world's northern Venice!

XC-Skiing

“I have a great idea! Let’s go buy spaghetti-sized skis and then try to balance on them as we walk/slide/ski across the beautiful Swedish countryside.”  Who’s brilliant idea was this? Oh yeah, mine. Well, sometimes the soul has you do things that your mind and body have not yet accepted. This was one of those things. XC-skiing. Cross-country skiing for those of you not familiar with the acronym. (I wasn’t either in the beginning). I have know about cross-country skiing for quite a while. I remember a friend of mine from Berkeley, California telling me about a trip she went on once and how much she loved it. It seemed like such a romantic thing to do. You merely put on your skis and then you simple glide across miles and miles of beautiful snow, into the sunset. Right. 

Cross-country skiing is exactly like that. If you have a very wild imagination, and you squint really hard if you are watching someone like me. My first words when I finally got the skis on and stood up was, “Whoooaaa!” But that barely described the sheer terror that enveloped me in that moment. My next words were something like, “Um... who’s idea was this?!” But I think those last ones were said only in the confines of my own little pea brain. It was hard work getting around that two kilometer track, complete with enough hills to terrify you into submission. My husband did much better than me, aside from falling once and bruising his tailbone because he had the unfortunate luck to land on one of his skis. My bruises were evenly distributed.

So how did we manage to make it around this unfortunately, poorly groomed track, as our friend informed us? With the expert advice and guidance of a pro. Yes, we were primed and taught the basics by our sweet and patient friend who used to compete in cross-country skiing back in Minnesota. How lucky for us to be taught by such a seasoned skier. She even looked the part in her sleek ski-pants and thin upper layers, while I looked like a black marshmallow, in my traditional, insulated ski-pants, rolled up at the ends because they were too long. Yes, living in the land of tall Vikings, most pants are too long for this short, Texas gal. 

However, even after that slightly terrifying first time, we went out alone yesterday for our second attempt and I must say it went much better. I did fall down a fews times but I am pretty sure I felt, for at least a few seconds, what it must feel like to glide across the snow. I also got to know what it feels like to wipe out at the bottom of the hills a couple of times but we did manage to go around the two kilometer track twice this time before calling it quits. Now we are seasoned pros and I am sure that the next time we venture out, we will indeed glide effortlessly across the miles and miles of beautiful snow, into the sunset. Or at least into the forest, where we will hopefully not get lost. 

Heading out... in Stockholm you can just hop on a subway train with your skis and get to a ski track in thirty minutes. 

Action shot! 

You get warm quickly... I had to peel off my jacket and hat. It's a great workout!

Travel Series: Gotland, Part One

After hearing so many good things about Gotland from friends and family, we decided that a trip there to see for ourselves was a must. It just so happened that a couple of Swedish holidays (Kristi himmelsfärds dag, or the Ascension in English, and National Day) were clumped together in such a way that we had five days off in a row, including the weekend, so we got an extra EXTRA long weekend without needing to use any vacation days at all. This doesn’t happen very often so we took advantage of it and decided on our trip to Gotland for that weekend. We started planning for our June trip in April. Little did we know that the ferry to and from Gotland booked up so quickly. Even booking two months ahead there were no slots available for cars on the ferry. What a bummer. With some research and luck however, we finagled our plans and decided to rent a car once we got to Gotland and we headed over on the ferry as passengers. Below is my travel journal of our four lovely days on Sweden’s eastern most island.

Day one: Visby

Our ferry arrived in the late afternoon. Not knowing exactly how far away our hotel was we opted to brave it and walk with our luggage instead of taking a cab. It wasn’t such a bad idea, as we arrived to the hotel within approximately fifteen minutes. Check in was a breeze as well and we were given a lovely corner room that had the cutest, mini balcony with views to the sea. In the time we had before dinner we took an exploratory walk around the old town area, or inner city of Visby, which I immediately fell in love with. The quaint cobblestone streets and medieval buildings only added to the romantic charm. Our long weekend was off to a fabulous start. 

For dinner we had reservations at a tapas restaurant called La Masia, located in another hotel nearby. Our own hotel served breakfast only but the staff was very helpful and offered their own restaurant recommendations. La Masia however was selected by yours truly based on reviews I found online. While the atmosphere was pleasant enough, the food was disappointing. The jalapeño popper appetizer, which was one of the things that drew me to the restaurant, was nothing more than a poorly breaded sliver of jalapeño and cheese, with little flavor let alone spice. Their lovely wine selection and outdoor seating however made up for the food and with it being our first evening on vacation we chose to focus on the positives and enjoyed our glasses of wine and the crisp island air. 

Afterward we walked down to the waterfront near our hotel. We strolled along the seawall as we took in the gorgeous sunset, and not too far down we discovered an opening in the wall that edged the boardwalk and decided to go in. There were no signs posted to stay out but we still felt as though we were doing something mischievous. As we strolled around exploring and looking at all of the unusual plants and trees we realized that we had happened upon the Botanisk Trädgården (Botanical Garden), which was open to the public. It was a beautifully, manicured garden and as we wandered through we even met the Botanical garden's cat, who appeared to want company but not affection. Feeling shunned, we said our goodbyes and headed back to our hotel to rest up for the next day's adventures. 

Day two: Fårö

After a lovely breakfast at our hotel we picked up our rental car and immediately headed north to Fårö. If you are heading to Fårö I recommend going as early in the day as possible because the wait for the ferry that takes your from Gotland to Fårö can be quite long. We were only seven or eight cars back in the line to the ferry and we waited about forty-five minutes before we were able to board the ferry. Once on the island of Fårö we took the road west to see Digerhuvud and then drove along the coast up to Långhammars. The raukar, or limestone pillars, at Digerhuvud were amazing to see but if you are tight on time I would recommend driving straight to Långhammars, where the limestone pillars are taller and even more amazing, to allow yourself more time to see the rest of the island, and Ingmar Bergman's home which we missed this trip. 

We stopped for lunch at the unlikely Kutens Bensin, a funky little place that served surprisingly excellent crepes. There was a garden out back with outdoor seating where we sat gazing around at vintage cars and old, neon signs from America while we waited for our food. The only drawback was that we arrived just after a large crowd so it took quite a while to get our food. Aside from the long wait however, I would highly recommend Kutens Bensin. The restaurant owner had lived in the United States for many years and he had a strong affinity for the American fifties and rock and roll. He even had a jukebox with a playlist complete with hundreds of old American songs from past years.

After lunch we drove to the sand beach of Sudersandsviken. It was unfortunately still a bit too cold to sunbathe or go for a swim so we took a chilly, barefoot walk along the water, daring to stick our toes in the icy water, before getting in the car and and heading onward to the Fårö Fyr (lighthouse). The landscape around lighthouse was beautifully picturesque, with a stone-covered beach and the Baltic Sea stretching as far as the eye could see. It felt like we were at the end of the world. We wandered around there taking photos and collecting a few stone souvenirs (me) before we started our drive back to the mainland and our hotel to rest up a bit before dinner. We dined that night at a quaint little Italian restaurant called Isola Bella. It had a gorgeous, interior dining room and a fairly new, modernized outdoor patio. We ordered red wine and pizza. Our wait for the food was the only downfall of our dining experience at Isola Bella. It was most likely an unusual glitch because it seemed that everyone around us was getting their food in a timely manner. We waited forty-five minutes for our pizza and when it finally arrived it was literally ice cold. Extremely disappointing. We mentioned this to our waitress, who was very apologetic and nice about it. We opted not to send it back to be remade, as we were beyond hungry by then but she still did not charge us for our pizza. I thought that was a very nice gesture on her part. My husband and I both agreed that we would definitely give Isola Bella another try.

Stay tuned for part two of this Travel Series....